I mean real wine, not cheap confections
What you won’t see on this list are labels
like Oxford Landing or Yalumba Y series, Tyrrell’s Lost Block or Old Winery, or
Jacobs Creek in its various forms. They tend to
creep into the BEST lists of Halliday, Stock et al for reasons that are beyond
me to explain. There’s no reason I can think of to drink these industrial
concoctions.
The best value in Aussie whites has long
been found in our Rieslings. This is even more obvious in a near perfect
vintage like 2012, where even humble labels like Annie’s Lane shine like stars
on a black night sky. I bought this wine for $10, and some of our best 2012
Rieslings can be bought for $13 - $18. Andrew Mitchell coined the famous phrase
that ‘the Clare valley is blessed with the unpopularity of Riesling.’ I’d
extend that to include the Eden
Valley also.
One reason why Riesling is not as popular
as it should be is that wine writers keep telling us to drink it with delicate
seafood dishes. I suspect the citrus fruit in young Rieslings makes them say
that, but ripe Riesling fruit is too perfumed and intense in a vintage like
2012. Riesling is a much better match with chicken dishes, especially roast
chicken.
Sauvignon
Blanc anybody?
So what do you drink with seafood?
Sauvignon Blanc. Yes, I know of the ABSB movement (Anything But SB), but there
are some good ones of the grassy, gooseberry kind. Young Semillon that blends
citrus and green apple characters with searing acid can also be a good match
for seafood. Or a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc of the kind Margaret River
does so well, unless it’s a big-flavoured fish or fish dish when a Chardonnay
may be a better bet.
Finding good Chardonnays under $20 is a
tough ask, but Hoddles Creek, TarraWarra, Bellarmine and Nugan Estate make
wonderful exceptions. Closer to $10, things get tight. De Bortoli’s Windy Peak
Chardonnay 2011 is one of the few bright spots here, and McWilliams Hanwood
Chardonnay 2009 provides another one at around $8. Montes from Chile
makes a drinkable Chardonnay in that ballpark as well.
Reds
are no easier
No single variety stands out for value, but
finding good Pinot Noir for any sort of reasonable money is just about Mission
Impossible. Since you can buy a Margaret River Cabernet for as little as $11,
we might just forget about the fickle Pinot Noir. Good Grenache blends aren’t
hard to find either if you like reds in the Rhone
style (vaguely). We have an abundance of Shiraz
styles, mostly on the robust side, from the Hunter to Heathcote to the Barossa,
the Clare and McLaren Vale.
I’ve resisted the temptation to list the
great bargains that came and went, and have stuck to wines you can still buy if
you know where. As I’ve written elsewhere, 2011 was a tough year for reds in South Australia but
there are still plenty of 2010s in the shops. You can even find some of the
great Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Black label of 2009 – a much better
red then the 2010 – at Dan M’s and 1St Choice, but no longer for
$20.
New
Varieties
In recent years, we seen wineries explore
the potential of new varieties from countries like Italy
and Spain
– Fiano, Vermentino, Savagnin, Barbera, Sangiovese and Temperanillo. I’ve yet
to be impressed or surprised, and suspect we need better clones and more time
to work out where to grow these varieties and how to make them into good wine. Pinot
Gris is the only one that’s made it so far, but it tends to work better in
cooler areas and NZ.

Lavernia e Cienfuegos Creative Agency
Not
just my opinion
Wine is a pretty subjective substance, so
I’ve included the views/reviews of others where they depart strongly from the
mainstream. I’ve also added other reviews where they’re helpful, for example when
it comes to styles I don’t like such as Hunter Semillons or McLaren Vale
Shiraz, or blockbuster reds of 14.5% alcohol and more.
A
quick reprise of my simple scoring system:
10 (98-99) a truly memorable wine, a likely
classic
9 (96-97) an outstanding wine, a great
example of its style and origin
8 (94-95) a fine wine that reflects its
variety, style and origin
7 (92-93) a good, enjoyable wine of
authentic character
6 (90-91) a well-made wine, a good
'drinking' wine
5 (88-89) a wine that's easy on the gums
and has no serious faults
4 (86-87) a wine best used in the kitchen or
in marinades for the BBQ
3 (85 and less) a wine you should avoid
BEST VALUE
WHITES
Annie’s
Lane Riesling 2012
- $12, Dan M’s
This is often discounted down to $10, which
makes it a stupendous bargain. Classic Clare Riesling from a great year with
that terrific fruit intensity and crisp citrus edge, well balanced but a little
more forward than some - a wine to enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Next time it
comes down to $10, back up the ute. Score: 8+
Jim
Barry Watervale Riesling 2012 - $13.75, Kemenys
Vibrant, zippy Riesling with intense citrus
fruit, hints of minerals and a fine acid backbone. Classic Clare. 12.4%, enjoy
for the next 7 years. 8+
Hidden
label Watervale Riesling 2010 - $10, Kemenys
This is Knappstein Handpicked Riesling
under a Hidden label. Typical 2010 Clare Riesling, with restrained citrus fruit
and minerals, long, fine finish, long future too. 12.5%. 95/100 from JH. Real
bargain. Score: 8
Pewsey
Vale Riesling 2012 - $15, Kemenys
Another great 2012 Riesling at a bargain
price, proving that it was a great year in Eden Valley
as well. Almost Germanic delicacy to the fruit, lovely length typical of the
area. This is one of the best Rieslings of 2012, and ridiculous value. Back up
the ute! Score: 9+
Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – $13, Kemenys
Herbaceous, flinty gooseberry style. Flavour, depth
and length. The 2011 is now perfect drinking. Summer drinking, serious bargain.
Score: 7 +
Hidden
Label Margaret River
Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 - $13, Kemenys
This is Stella Bella under a Hidden Label. A
fairly big wine with more to it than most SSBs, ripe fruit with grass and
gooseberry notes balanced by a strong finish. Score: 7
Villa
Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2012 - $15, Kemenys
The 2011 was a pretty good wine until it
rushed into flabby maturity (as most PGs do). Best to drink them 6 -15 months
after vintage. I’m taking a punt on the 2012.
Montes
Chardonnay 2011 - $8.50, Dan M’s
Recognisable as Chardonnay, even sports a
touch of complexity. A surprisingly well-rounded wine for the money. Score: 6 +
De Bortoli Windy Peak
Chardonnay 2011 - $11.50, Dan M’s
Not a lot of complexity here, just a
well-made, easy drinking commercial Chardonnay. Great value. Score: 6
Nugan
Estate Frasca’s Lane King Valley Chardonnay 2009 -
$17, Dan M’s
Despite almost years under its belt, I
think this medium bodied Chardy needs another year or two to lose those
grapefruit characters and hints of sour milk. There’s white peach trying to
come out when the oak fully settles down, then it should really sing. 13.5%. JH
is a little more enthusiastic and gives it 94 points. I’ll give it 7+.
Hoddles Creek Chardonnay 2011 – $19, Winestar. Score: 8.5
Terrific Chardonnay, oozes quality wine
making. Campbell Mattinson sums it up this way: Long, complex, giving and finessed to perfection. Meal, nectarine, and
lime flavour before a spicy, slatey, stony finish. Hoddles Creek Estate is no
longer a “new” story so there’s no call for surprise, but this still managed to
bowl me over. Rated : 95+ Points; 13.2%
Tahbilk
Marsanne 2012 – $12, Dan M’s
Fresh and crisp when young, ages into a
golden, round, honeyed treasure. 6++
Vintage Cellars
Chalkboard Hunter
Valley Semillon 2012
Trophy for the Best Current Vintage
Semillon and the trophy for Best Current Vintage Dry White Wine at this year’s
Hunter Wine show. Not my style but here’s what Tyson Stelzer says: Assembled by the legendary crew at Tyrrell’s
exclusively for VCs, this is a crisp and zesty style of pure lime and lemon
fruit, with a hint of cut grass. The 2012 vintage has made for a generous Semillon
of impressive balance and clean fruit focus ...
Dopff
au Moulin Pinot Blanc 2011 - $13, Dan M’s
Different. More fine minerals than fruit,
good length, good with food like quiche or light, creamy pasta.
McLaren Escarpment, SA
BEST VALUE REDS
Foxie’s
Hangout The Red Fox Pinot Noir 2010 - $19, 1st
Choice
Won 3 trophies at the Victorian Wines Show in 2011. A fruit-driven style, with cherries and
raspberries aplenty, balanced by some savoury flavours and gentle tannins. Not
the most complex Pinot but lovely drinking. A bit hard to find now but worth
looking for. Score: 7.5
Mount
Langi Billi Billi Shiraz 2009 - $12.50, Kemenys
Vibrant, fruit-driven style, red berries,
warm spices and pepper; well- balanced, medium-bodied palate, long finish. 14%.
Punches well above its weight. Score: 7
Zeppelin Big Bertha Barossa Shiraz 2009 - $13, Winestar
These Zeppelin wines
are big and soft Barossa reds made by Kym Teusner and Corey Ryan. Ready to
drink, great with barbies. 14.5%. Score: 7
Hidden
Label McLaren Vale Uncut Shiraz 2010 – Kemenys, $13
This is Gemtree under a Hidden Label. Not
my style, but here’s what JH thinks of this wine: Deep, dense purple-crimson; this is a notably intense and complex
Shiraz from the start of the bouquet through to the finish and aftertaste;
spice, licorice, blackberry, blood plum and dark chocolate powder all have
their say while leaving space and air, giving the wine finesse and elegance.
14.5%. Drink by: 2025. 95/100.
Teusner
The Riebke Shiraz 2010 - $20, Winestar
Terrific Shiraz from old vines, from a great maker and a close to perfect vintage. Can't believe there's any left. 96 from JH, and I agree: 9
Seppelt
Chalambar Shiraz 2009 - $17.50, Kemenys
A stylish cool climate red from the
Grampians, medium- bodied with dark fruits, pepper and spices. Complex flavour,
good depth and length with fine tannins and a long finish. 13.5%. (96 from
Halliday). Score: 8
Yalumba
The Scribbler Cabernet Shiraz 2009 - $14.75,
Kemenys
Barossa and Eden Valleys.
Elegant, vibrant, fruit-driven style. Not too big. 13.5%. Score: 7.5
St
Hallet Shiraz
Grenache 2010 - $12, 1st Choice
A Shiraz Grenache at the elegant end of the
spectrum, good flavour and balance, not bad for the money. Great if you like the style but
not the usual blockbusters. 13.5%. Score: 6+
Teusner
Shiraz Mataro 2010 – $18, MyCellars
Outstanding example of this blend from the
Barossa, made from old vines, great flavour, perfect with roast beef
or hearty casseroles. Grab some while you still can. Score: 8.5
Montes Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - $8.50, Dan M's
Refined, polished Cabernet of authentic flavour and medium body. Nice drinking for the money. Score: 6+
McWilliams
Hanwood Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 - $6.65, Kemenys
Medium-bodied, elegant Cabernet of
surprising refinement. well balanced, long palate with gentle cassis fruit and
fine tannins. A real surprise at this price. Score: 6
Hidden
label Margaret River Cabernet 2009 - $11, Kemenys
This is Capel Vale regional selection under
a Hidden label, which saves about $7. Typical medium-bodied Margaret River
Cabernet Sauvignon from a great year, polished black current fruit, soft
tannins, easy drinking. 14%. JH gives this 94, and I’m not far behind with a
score of 7. Ridiculous value.
Seppelt
Grampians Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 - Dan M
Cellar Release, online - $14.90
A real sleeper: medium bodied, soft and
gentle, mature Cabernet, easy on the gums. Only source is DM online
http://danmurphys.com.au/product/DM_916389/seppelt-cabernet-sauvignon-2005
Hidden
Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - $18,
Kemenys
This is the Leconfield 2010 under a hidden
label, for a saving of $7-10. Rich, ripe, opulent cassis fruit, real depth,
length and great balance with polished tannins. 14.5%. If you like the big
Coonawarra cassis style, this is a great red. Score: 8.5
Amberley Secret
Lane Margaret
River Cabernet Merlot 2010 - $15, Winelistaustralia
I can’t believe there’s some of the 2010
left out there – this is the red bargain of 2012. It has won a gold in
virtually every capital city wine show (and several trophies), an almost
unequalled feat in terms of consistency. It’s a joy to drink: medium bodied but
rich and supple, stacked with cassis and blackcurrant fruit, dried herbs and
slate, all in perfect balance. http://www.winelistaustralia.com.au/wineShow.php?d=e501&pid=2459
Balnaves Of Coonawarra The Blend 2010 – $18, Winestar
53% Merlot, 37% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. I found it a bit too plush and lacking
complexity, but others rave about it. Halliday talks of quite exceptional colour, absolutely full to
the gills with juicy cassis blackcurrant fruit, fine, ripe tannins and quality
French oak in abundance. It's way better than the 2009 and, indeed, one of the
best 'The Blends' to date. 95 Points; Alcohol: 14.5%
Wynns
Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 - $25,
Dan M’s
A stunning Cabernet even for $25, would
make a great Christmas treat. Lots of cassis fruit but perfectly balanced with cedary
oak, medium body, fine tannins, so well balanced it will improve for years. My
score: 9. JH’s score: 96.
Wynns
Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 -
$26, Dan M’s
For just a dollar more, Dan Murphy offers
the Cellar Release from 2006. All the same gorgeous attributes, but ready to
drink now and over the next couple of years. Stunning value. My score: 8.5. JH’s
score: 95

Bubbles and
Sweet
Lindauer Brut NV - $12, Kemenys
Don’t know this one but Huon Hooke likes
it: Light yellow with a faint brassy
tint. Collar of mousse. Rich, complex, pinoty nose, smoky and meaty, red fruit
aromas, complex and shows some maturity. Same in mouth: has some richness and
breadth, a wine of mellowness and some developed character, with evident
liqueur sweetness which is in fine balance with the flavour. Lovely drink.
Rating: 91/100.
Chandon NV - 17.50, Kemenys
This is always a good value bubbly with a fine
mousse, very well made and refined, some yeasty/bready characters, good
length and a clean finish. Score: 7.5
Brown
Brothers Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier - $19,
Dan M’s
A very fine wine, where
all the elements come together in harmony. A touch more complexity than the
Chandon. Has won a bunch of trophies and gold medals. Score: 7.5
Leasingham Bin 8 KS Riesling 2008 - $8, Dan M
If Riesling has never become popular, late
picked Riesling has become virtually invisible.
JH encapsules the style perfectly:
Elegant, intense, direct throwback to the Vickery spatlese wines of the early
1970s; sweet pure lime juice offset by
perfectly balanced acidity; great length and certain to age over 20+ years.
10%. 95 points. Super bargain, but try it first.
Deen
de Bortoli Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon 2008 -
$10.50 for 375ml, Dan M’s
Great value sticky, not the most complex
wine but lots of sweet flavour and plenty of botrytis apricot character. Not a
lot of acid here so don’t keep it too long. Score: 7.5
Kim