In The Picture

BEST WINES UNDER $20 IS NOW A WEBSITE

The Best Wines Under $20 website will have a clearer focus on finding the best wines in 4 categories – under 10, 15, 20 and 25 dollars. A website gives me more flexibility to present the information I want to present. The name is the same as the url, and very simple: http://bestwinesunder20.com.au/

What’s new?

The plan is to go for a bigger following and a broader market. This is the promise:

• We show you where to buy great wines at bargain prices
• We run up-to-date lists of BEST WINES UNDER $10, 15, 20 and 25
• We don’t sell wine, we run no ads, subscription is free

There is also a focus on weekly bargains: Under the Current Bargains tab, you’ll find major retailers listed along with their current promotions. This way, if you find yourself in a Vintage Cellars store, for example, you can get on your mobile and check the bargains. In time, this information will be in a weekly email to subscribers as well.

What won’t change

The new focus will have no impact on my straight-talking wine reviews and acerbic observations about the curious state of our wine industry. I don’t go to the fancy lunches, dinners and launch events the industry puts on, because it’s much easier to shoot straight when you’re not partying on the gravy train with the people who feed you.

Most wine writers review the samples sent to them by wineries or distributors. They pay little attention to price or availability because they never have to buy their own wine – they get free samples delivered to their front doors every day. We couldn’t be more different:

• We buy our wines in the same places you do
• We recommend easy-to-find wines stocked by major retailers
• Our main criteria are quality and price

The Best Wines Under $20 website still needs some finishing touches but the main things work fine. Please have a look and make suggestions – where we can, we’ll take them on board.

Best Regards

Kim

Summer of Riesling 2013 - it doesn't get better than this!

2012 was the best Riesling vintage for a decade

2013 was the hottest summer on record

There were many days when I preferred cold beer to chilled white wine, but there were late evening picnics at the beach where Riesling improved the flavour of cold chicken. This is one of the best-kept secrets in matching food and wine: roast chicken and Aussie Riesling. Wine and food scribes always talk about eating oysters and shellfish with young Rieslings, because of their lime juice and mineral flavours.

They’re wrong in my view: there’s too much fruit even in our young Rieslings, which perfectly complements the sweet meat of chicken and even light cuts of pork. So does the citrus character of the fruit. Older Rieslings develop more flavour so the match works even with richer chicken dishes. If people only knew that Riesling and roast chicken are a match made in heaven, the price would go through the roof. As it is, Rieslings resolutely remain super bargains.

BUY

I had a chance to taste two members of the same family: The Pewsey Vale and the Heggies Rieslings, both from 2012, both from Eden Valley. The family is Yalumba, which decided long ago to market these wines under their individual vineyard labels. An interesting branding strategy, but it worked. As you can see, both wines are even made by different winemakers.

I prefer the Pewsey Vale because it has a bit more zip and fresh fruit and fine acid to carry it. The Heggies is a bit rounder and a touch more forward. There’s not that much in it - as you can see, residual sugar is the only real difference. That explains why the Heggies is more forward, but I can’t see it lasting 15 years. The Pewsey Vale will last that long. It’s the better wine, even though it’s a couple of dollars cheaper. I’ve bought some of this wine for less than $14 a bottle, which is ridiculous. At present, they’re $15 and $17 respectively at Kemenys.

Jim Barry Watervale Riesling 2007 - $15 at Dan M’s

Found this by accident, really, available online only. This wine is in between two stages, and a bit unsettled. It’s no longer young but retains some fresh acid on the finish, and it’s also developing aged characters – that whiff of kero and hair oil old Rieslings get. I think it’ll be a good one when it settles down in a couple of years or three. Again, the price is ridiculous. Not sure how much is left at Dan M’s.

I also confirmed in my own mind what a lovely wine and great bargain the 2012 is. At present it’s going for less than $13 at Kemenys and Dan M’s.

Nugan Estate King Valley Frasca’s Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 - $17 at Dan M’s

I like the 2009, and I like the 2010 for the same reasons: it’s a well-made, it’s three years old and on the way to settling down and filling out. Good chardonnays need 5 years or more to show their true colours, great white Burgundies need 10. This one avoids the current affection of wine judges for grapefruit and lemon curd and leans instead toward stone fruit like white peaches and nectarines, touched up with some spicy oak. Give it a couple of years to settle down, and it will do you proud.

dA Chardonnay Limoux Reserve 2011 - $15 at Dan M’s

This is another good Chardonnay, a bit more forward and ready to enjoy. Cashews and toasty oak, all well put together and quite enjoyable. From the Languedoc, the Riverina of France, claims an Appelation Origine Controllee. It’s well-made and decent value too.

Wither Hills Chardonnay 2011 – $14 at Kemenys

It’s unusual for me to strike a group of three Chardonnays that are all good buys. Yes, it’s the 2011 W Hills I’m reviewing but I lost the bottle so the photo is of the 2010. It was $12 at Dan M’s the day I bought it, but has since jumped back to $15. This is a really fresh, juicy, vibrant kind of Chardy. There’s just a hint of grapefruit here before we savour white peach and a touch of French oak and a hint of cashews. There’s a nice, clean line of acidity running through the wine, and I found it very appealing. Not a huge amount of complexity here but just lovely, lively drinking. 

Tahbilk 2007 Marsanne - $16 at Dan M’s (2007 Cellar release)

Another bargain white that Tahbilk has been making forever from vines planted in1927. Marsanne is a variety grown mostly in the southern Rhone Valley where it is blended with Roussanne and other varieties. When it’s young, this wine is a fresh and clean summer white that does go with shellfish. After a few years it develops lovely toasty, honeysuckle characters, but this one isn’t quite there yet. Give it another year or five.

Paul Jaboulet Cotes du Rhone Parallele 45 Rouge 2009 - $17 Cracka 

My mate Reg threw this one into the ring, saying it was a good drop, and I enjoyed it with a small  lamb roast. Easily recognisable as a Cote-du-Rhone from its dusty, slaty characters, it shows elegance, balance and length. Again not a complex wine but I’d be happy to drink it often. It’s a bit hard to track down, this one. Never bought anything from this stupid Cracka outfit that clutters up the search engine results – anybody bought wine from them?

Paulette Polish Hill River Clare Valley Cabernet Merlot 2007 – $20 at Dan M’s

The Polish Hill River thing gets me every time – is it a hill or a river? I guess it’s both. This sub region of the Clare (Watervale and Sevenhill are others) has been made famous by Jeffrey Grosset and his fabulous Rieslings, which are way beyond our $25 threshold. Paulette is well-known but makes lovely, delicate Rieslings here as well, and reds like this elegant number which is Australian in flavour and French in its elegance. Nice change if you like your reds with a bit of finesse. 

Fraser Gallop Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – $20 at 1^st Choice

At one stage last year, they sold this for less than $15.This SSB from a boutique Margaret River maker got rave reviews (96 from Halliday among others) and I like it too, I just don’t think it’s developed the way I expected. Lots of flavour, for sure, but not showing as much finesse or restraint as the West Cape Howe below. Great food wine, though. Dan M has the 2012 for $19.

Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2011 - $12 at Kemenys

This wine didn’t convince a year ago or more so it was surprise how it’s flourished. Can happen with SB in a good vintage, and 2011 was one of those (2012 is much more forward). The Oyster Bay 2011 did the same thing. More herbaceous than I recall, quite full-flavoured now but all held in balance. Great with fried salmon.

West Cape Howe Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2010 – $15 at 1^st Choice

Bought this a year ago before 1^st Choice still offered sharp prices on lots of good wines. As I’ve written elsewhere, Coles tossed in the towel last year in its battle with Woolworth’s, at least on the wine front. That 1^st Choice still has the 2010 on the shelf just goes to show how few people know this medium-sized winery in the Great Southern region of Western Australia.

This wine is fine and restrained and developing slowly, because of the Semillon component. Grass, herbs and minerals, perfect with delicate seafood. The current 2012 that’s around for the same money might be a bit more forward from what I’ve seen of the vintage over there. They also make a good straight Sauvignon Blanc and some great reds as well. Winery is top-rated by James Halliday (5 red stars).

NOT CONVINCED

Vavasour Sauvignon Blanc 2011 –$12 at Dan M’s (for the 2012)

I’ve yet to be convinced by one of these. 2011 was a great year for SB in New Zealand but this one is a flabby, non-descript white with some tropical fruit. A slouch with no class or posture. Maybe a bit harsh, that. I’m not tempted to buy the 2012 but it’s cheap at Dan M’s this week.

Printhie Mountain Range Pinot Gris 2011 – $18 at Dan M’s

I liked the Printhie Pinot Gris 2010 from Orange, and the label, but the 2011 is not in the same class. The ripeness surprises, given the wet year, and it lacks the acid to hold it together. She’s a bit like a woman who’s put on some weight and hasn’t yet had her dresses altered. Might’ve been better 12 months ago – Pinot Gris can develop at breakneck speed, so don’t keep it too long. As an aside, Kemenys sell these whines for less than $14, but only have the 2011 Chardonnay in stock (not tasted, the 2010 was OK).

Reserve Martinborough Pinot Noir 2010 - $20 at the Pott’s Point Deli next to Woolworths on McLeay

This is a lovely deli with some interesting wines, and thjis one caught my eye. The enthusiastic boys there said it was a bargain but I have to disagree. It’s pleasant enough with soft, ripe fruit nodding vaguely in the direction of Pinot Noir, but it lacks flavour and conviction and the depth and backbone to keep it in shape, really. It’s drinkable but there are better reds out there for the money.

Madfish Bay Margaret River Golden Turtle Shiraz 2010 – Dan M’s $14

Another disappointment in this new range from Howard park Wines. The Cabernet Merlot is a steal but this is a clumsy red devoid of charm and appeal. Barely recognisable as Shiraz, certainly not from Margaret River – I would’ve picked it as a Hunter from an ordinary year or maker.

XANADU Next of Kin Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 – $15 at Bonds Corner Fine Wines

Much the same comments as for the Golden Turtle Shiraz, strange as it is. Not readily recognisable as Cabernet or Margaret River, clumsy and unappealing. No major faults really, just not much chop. The 2010 is in the shops now and gets a decent review and 91 points from the boys at Winefront. The 2010 Shiraz under the same label is a winner, btw. 

AVOID

Goundrey Homestead 2012 - $10 at Dan Murphys

The 2011 was a winner, a fresh, uncomplicated mouthful of grapes, but this is rubbish, sweet lolly water, unrecognisable as Chardonnay, unstructured, unconvincing at half the price. There’s no justification for putting out wine this bad, and BRL-Hardies ought to hang its corporate head in shame. This goes down with the awful, undrinkable OOMOO GSM 2010 on my shortlist of worst wines ever tasted.

M.Chapoutier Luberon 2011 - $13 at Dan M’s

These minor Rhone reds can be nice drinking but not this one. It starts in a promising way but soon reveals unpleasant, sweaty and swampy characters you don’t want to associate with. A low blow from the usually reliable Chapoutier.

Turners Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 - $20 at 1^st Choice

Turners Crossing is a highly rated winery in the Bendigo region, and the wines are made by well-regarded Sergio Carlei who also has a winery in the Yarra Valley. The Shiraz Viognier is the more well-known of the two reds under this label, and I like the 2008. This Cabernet is a mess, however, with a green vegetative character (I thought it might be mint on the nose initially) spoiling the show. It got worse over a couple of days - not really drinkable. Maybe this was a bad bottle?

KIM

Penfolds Bin Reds and Icon release 2013 – breathtaking stuff

The gravy train rides again, with wine writers on board

I don’t go to lavish industry functions, free wine dinners and meet-the-maker PR tours through wineries and fine restaurants. I go to a few simple wine tastings, but mostly I buy my own samples for review. That way, I’m more than an arm’s length away from the people I write about and their products. Miles away, in fact, and I say exactly what I want to.

Here’s what can happen when a wine writer gets too close to a wine company: he begins to sound like its PR agency. Tyson Stelzer is a tireless wine enthusiast and ambassador, but his piece Penfolds Bin and Icon Release 2013 disturbs me deeply. Read on, and you’ll see why. I’ve quoted liberally from his post (in italics) to illustrate the point I’m making here.

It is difficult to overstate the significance of the 2010 vintage in the flow of the grand history of Penfolds,’ is how Tyson begins his post. Late last year I was privileged to a very rare sneak preview of this vintage at Penfolds’ Rewards of Patience tastings. In assessing almost every vintage of its top red wines spanning seven decades, one season drew unanimous superlatives from the eight wine critics in the room. You guessed it: it’s 2010, the vintage at the centre of this release.

 

Please indulge me the longest introduction in more than 100 editions of Wine Taste 

An ominous beginning. First up, Tyson tells us that Penfolds Bin wines will be released on Thursday March 7 2013, and Icon Wines – Grange, 707 et al - on Thursday May 2, yet he has previewed both lots on his website now. I’m surprised the folks at Penfolds agreed to this since they normally keep the two events quite separate.

More on this release: “Watch out 1990, 1986, 1976 and maybe even 1971!” Penfolds’ Chief Winemaker Peter Gago waxed [lyrical?] at the end of the Rewards of Patience tasting. “When 2010 Penfolds Grange arrives, I think it will blow all before it for a decade or two out of the water!” Strong endorsement, and this is no hyped marketing pitch – two other vintages will land before 2010 Grange sees the light of day in 2015.

Some of the finest red wines across the vast sweep of Australian wine history

No hyped marketing pitch? Tyson rates the 2008 Grange at 99 points - looks like he’ll have to go well above 100 for the 2010. And what about: Blow all before it out of the water? Are we talking war games or wine here? Is Admiral Gago high on sniffing too much Grange? There’s still more lyrical wax to cut through. This is what Tyson says about the Special Bin 2010 releases: In years to come, they will rightfully be released at monumental prices. These wines will define the reputation of 2010 in the coming decades …’

Such a high point in the arc of Penfolds’ winemaking history

Am I alone in thinking that this reads like a press release? Penfolds’ 2010 reds are wines of astonishing depth and potent concentration, rippling with voluptuous, succulent black fruits … The second factor at play in the 2010 vintage … lies in the fortune of this vintage in falling at such a high point in the arc of Penfolds’ winemaking history. A diligent regime of attention to detail in both vineyards and winery in recent decades has elevated virtually every cuvée in the line …’

Just when you thought we'd reached the top of the hyperbole curve, Tyson makes a final lunge for the Holy Grail: There has not been a time of such daring experimentation at Penfolds since those fabled early days of Max Schubert himself

Max giving Ray Beckwith his retirement watch in 1973 - Ray’s pioneering work in the lab gave Max the tools for making great wine. Ray died last year, not long after his 100^th birthday.

Penfolds’ Cellar Reserve program is the source of new and exciting wines every year,' Tyson adds and quotes Peter Gago who says: “A boutique winery within Penfolds!”

Yes, that's what the man said. The audacity of it all leaves me speechless. I think it means Penfolds will produce more fancy special bins at even fancier prices like the 250 dollar Bin 169, or the 1000 dollar Special Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz. These wines are nice little earners for Penfolds, and are sought after by investors and collectors. The former will lose serious money on their investments, as we’ll see further down.

2010 is the absolute pinnacle of vintages at Penfolds

First, a few more words from our sponsor about the fabulous 2010 vintage: Flight after flight, wine after wine, the very first sneak preview of Penfolds’ 2010 flagships in the Rewards of Patience tastings last year made a monumental statement of the calibre of this vintage: 2010 looks set to rank high among the finest vintages of all time. When I quizzed Penfolds’ Senior Red Winemaker Steve Lienert on the vintage at the conclusion of the tastings he declared, “2010 is the absolute pinnacle of vintages at Penfolds, one of the strongest years across the board for all Penfolds red wines across all varieties and all regions.” From everything I’ve tasted, I can only agree.

And we can only wonder. Enough of that, let's get down to the wines - and here I've included a counterpoint from the grand gadfly of the wine business Philip White. It's quite a contrast, and crafted in Philip's inimitable style.

Most prices haven’t moved this year 

That’s what Tyson tells us in one breath. In another, he talks about substantial [price] hikes. So which is it? He means the basic Bin Red prices remain unchanged, except that Bin 407 is up to $75 from $65. Among the icons, Bin 707 and Bin 169 are up to $350 from $250 last year. That’s a 40% hike in one foul swoop as our Prime Minister would say. Bin 707 has almost doubled in price from $190 two years ago. Grange is has gone up a mere 10% to $685.

Tyson concedes that these are substantial hikes but adds that they don’t look so absurd in the context of global demand for top cabernet and spiralling Bordeaux pricing. Then he adds that these prices make other flagship wines in Coonawarra and Margaret River look like real bargains.

I can feel Tyson's pain as he’s squirming on the fence here – how can you take Penfolds to task for price gouging after they’ve wined and dined you for 3 days last year on every vintage ever made, and given you previews of every special wine yet to be released. TWE/ Penfolds knows how to embed wine writers but some wine writers don’t seem to know when they’ve become part of Penfolds PR corps.

Spiralling Bordeaux prices?

This is a curious claim, because it’s nonsense. Reuters reports that ‘Bordeaux prices headed lower all through the year [2012]. The top Premier Crus - Chateaux Lafite Rothschild, Margaux, Latour, Haut-Brion and Mouton Rothschild - were all down … as much as 40 percent from the previous highs.’

Same in Hong Kong, closer to home: ‘At Spectrum Wines' auction … cases of 1982 Chateau Lafite went for between $33,860 and $38,115 … A year ago, such cases of Lafite were selling for about $45,000. Spectrum wine specialist Dan Rhodes blamed part of the slide in Bordeaux prices on the glut of inventory - there is quite a lot of Bordeaux in Asia …’

This article in Bloomberg says that the trade has also marked down prices for the 2008 Bordeaux reds, and for 2011 futures. So where are these spiralling Bordeaux prices?

Filling in the middle ground

Tyson tells us that the 3000-6000 cases of Bin 707 are the first Penfolds icon reds to sell out in every market every year. That explains the 80%+ price hike in the last two years. Parent company TWE is struggling to produce decent profits despite sitting on the greatest wine brands in all of Australia: earnings before interest and tax of $73.4 million were down 20% on the same period the year before, so TWE is hell-bent on milking the hallowed Penfolds brand for all it’s worth.

What Penfolds has done in the last 2 years is to fill the yawning price gap that existed between the Bin 707 and Grange. My guess is they’ll settle around $750 for Grange next year, $400 for the 707 and 169, $200-250 for RWT and Magill, hoist the old Henri up over the $100 barrier and fill any remaining gaps with a few special bins.

Penfolds launch event for the Bin 169 2008 last year. Billed The Luxury Experience, it was held at the Fullerton Bay Hotel’s Clifford restaurant, overlooking the stunning Marina Bay Waterfront in Singapore.

The glut of inventory

The reason Penfolds left most of the standard Bin Red prices alone this year is that last year’s wines are still in the shops. Penfolds yanked their prices up sharply in 2012 - see Penfolds Bin Release 2012 - and struck serious resistance from merchants and consumers alike. These wines are Penfolds’ bread and butter, so TWE needs to be more careful.

At the ‘lower’ end of the range, Penfolds now has two levels of bin reds: the Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, the Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon and the newer Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz, all priced at $75. They’ll come down to under $60 discounted. The second tier is priced at $38, which will come down to under $30. These last wines will be hard to shift. Why? Because 4 out of 5 are 2011 reds, not 2010 like the $75 group.

2011 was a horror vintage for reds in South Australia which even Penfolds’ winemaking magic couldn’t make silk purses out of. Tyson rates these wines in the low nineties:

Penfolds Bin 138 Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache Mataro 2011, $38 – 91

Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2011, $38 – 92

Penfolds Bin 8 Cabernet Shiraz 2011, $38 – 92

Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz Mourvèdre 2011, $38 – 91

The Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz is the 2010, and it rates 96 with Tyson. He writes: Its colour is monumentally deep, jet black with a narrow, vibrant purple rim. The palate slowly uncoils to reveal tremendous depth of succulent black plum, blackberry and liquorice, with a crunchy vibrancy and an air of violet perfume that hovers from start to finish, framed in delightfully poised tannins of commanding structure yet ultra-fine restraint “This wine would do any Bin 28 back to 1959 proud,” Gago declared. It certainly did that day.

Sheer poetry! Philip White's take on the Bin 28 is far more down to earth: ‘Kalimna is a very important vineyard in the north Barossa ... Using this sacred name on a blend of grapes from McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Wrattonbully and Robe, as well as the Barossa in general, is surely equal to Pernod Ricard’s blending of almost anything in the Steingarten brand, just as it stretched Jacob’s Creek to include most of South-eastern Australia, from Rockhampton to Ceduna, and perhaps now to its vineyards in China.'

And what does Philip think of the wine? He calls it a 'jolly wine, oozing somewhere between fresh conserve, with its intact macerated berries, and jam, which is more sugary, cooked, homogenized and gloopy.' There's a fair bit of wood as well by the sound of it, His final take? 'It’s pleasant, inoffensive, and industrial.' Read the rest of Philip's reviews on the new Penfolds reds here. 

I suspect the Bin 28 will sell fast, but the others here will not. In our competitive market, even Penfolds can’t sell 91/92 point wines for $30 when you can buy lots of 95 point wines for $15 -25. Others like Andrew Caillard rate the 2011 Penfolds reds between 87 and 90 points. Not worth $30, clearly, and Penfolds isn’t the only game in town.

Tyson Stelzer scores the 2010 Bin 389 at 97 points, just one point behind his score for the Grange 2008. Philip White's take on the 389 is this: 'it’s as if the crew are so determined to make a junior Grange in style that they’ve exaggerated the worst aspects of the most awkward, woody Granges and the most rigidly over-oaked Bin 707s of yore …' Philip gives the wine 'a private score of about 75,' and adds: 'trust me in saying that this wood will never ever subside.’

An interesting aside: For many years, Bin 389 was called ‘the poor man’s Grange.’ At $75 a bottle, that doesn’t work anymore so Penfolds quietly introduced Bin 8 Cabernet Shiraz. I guess Bin 8 will now become known as ‘the poor man’s Bin 389.’ So it goes.

Investors, you’ll never get your money back and here’s why

Last year, the Brisbane Times wrote that Grange had ‘enjoyed such success that it became an investors' darling and, among international connoisseurs, Australia's most famous wine ... Unveiling the latest vintage on Thursday, Peter Jago (sic), Penfolds chief winemaker, said: ''Isn't it nice to know that should you not drink it [Grange], that it's sitting somewhere in a cellar or in a friend's cellar and it's gaining value. And that's a wonderful thing.'' '

These are curious times when wine writers behave like PR flacks, and winemakers become investment advisors. The notion that Grange appreciates in value over time is complete nonsense. Here’s the advice I gave in a blog post on Costco selling Grange at deep discounts: Never buy Grange at the time of its release.

That’s right, no matter how deep the discounts. Why? Because you’ll soon be able to pick up the current 2007 Grange for less than $400 at auction. Better still, you can buy the superior and much older 1996 Grange for $450 – $600 today. In fact, you’d have to go back to the early seventies before the price for Grange gets near the current RRP. The simple fact is that TWE has pushed the price of Grange so high that the brand can’t sustain it any longer. Check the current auction prices for Grange here.

Even the fast-selling Bin 707 isn’t doing that well on the auction scene, selling mostly for $150 – 200 a bottle at Langtons. If you paid $190 for yours 2 years ago, you won’t be impressed with the ROI. If you paid $250 for yours last year, you’ve lost money. If you’re buying the next 707 at $350, you’ll lose more money. Of course, if you bought Grange and 707 decades ago at the old prices, you’ll get more than your money back. That was then, this is now. You can hype up your precious wares all you like, but these are the bare facts.

Kim

Bonds Corner Fine Wines – from Gippsland to the Jura

Around the world on a rainy Saturday

This is one of the surviving (and thriving) independent bottle shops in Sydney. John the owner says he will match any of the big boys on price, but you soon realise that this causes him few problems since there is hardly a wine here that you’d find at Dan M’s or 1^st Choice. This is exotic territory, pure and simple, but some of the wines are affordable.

It didn’t look bright and sunny last Saturday which broke records for rain, but the wet stuff eased off a bit late in the afternoon. Gary Walsh from the Winefront was present as promised but Mike Bennie was apparently stuck at an airport somewhere.

Dandelion Wonderland of the Eden Valley 2012 - $18

It was good to get another look at this curio that so many people said so many wonderland things about. My review said it was a fine Riesling that leans to the chalky/mineral side of the spectrum, and that I preferred the Pewsey Vale from the same region ‘for the extra fruit and and zest it has in abundance. The Dandelion is a bit more restrained at this stage but has the structure to develop for some years. A classy dame, but a bit aloof and hard to talk to at present.’ I’m sticking with that for now.

Wickhams Road Chardonnay and Pinot Noir 2012 - $14.50 by the dozen

These wines are made by Franco d’Anna at Hoddles Creek, from fruit grown elsewhere in the Yarra Valley and in Gippsland. This is Franco’s second label if you like, or his third since he already has two in his Hoddles Creek range. The wines are well made, with the Chardonnays showing soft, ripe fruit and plenty of youthful appeal. None of that wretched lemon curd and sour grapefruit here.

These wines are good value for money, easy on the gums, better than most commercial wines at that price. Even the Pinot Noir is drinkable, and his some Pinot character, and that’s a miracle at this price.

Blue Poles Reserve Merlot 2010 - $36

A serious Merlot from Margaret River, with real meat on its bones and a real future. No ripe plum compote here. More muscles than the Pomerol in the line-up, if a little less refined. Interesting.

Ruggabellus Efferus 2010 - $38

Some recent news from The Young Gun of Wine Awards:  ‘… never before have both awards been won by the same winemaker. In 2012Abel Gibson of Ruggabellus has proven most popular on all accounts, with the judges choosing him for the Young Gun of Wine and consumers picking him for the People’s Choice.

Max Allen, author of The History of Australian Wine, said, “Past finalists of theYoung Gun of Wine Awards have gone on to become legends of the industry, so it is remarkable that one winemaker has taken both awards – particularly so in a year that has arguably the strongest lineup of finalists thus far.”

Abel Gibson grew up in the Barossa and started Ruggabellus in 2009 after the encouragement of Pete Schell of Spinifex (the 2008 Young Gun of Wine), whom he was then working for.

This is hand-made Barossa red – 50% Mataro, 40% Shiraz with a dash of Grenache and Cinsault. Enough pepper and herbs and spices here for a meal but not big and heavy, all very civilised and not a hint of oak. Interesting flavours, great balance, lots of depth and length.

Sami-Odi Wac Gonero - $76

It looks like it comes from Portugal or Madeira but that wacky label that gives us no information hides another hand-made Barossa red, this one made by Fraser McKinley. The Winefront has some background on him and his operation here. The short version is that Fraser has access to a part of the Hoffman’s vineyard near Ebenezer, where he uses organic practices and attention to pH in his vines and winemaking.

Maybe I was put off by the label or the foul weather, but this 2011/2012 red didn’t ring my bells or sing to me. It smelled a bit like a jungle, and tasted like a bit like a swamp. Quite developed, could be great with the right food – I’m thinking Creole.

Domaine de la Tournelle Savagnin de Voile 2009 - $48

These wines from the Jura on the French side of the Swiss Alps are not short of character. The area’s most famous wine is the Vin Jaune made from the Savagnin grape. As Gary Walsh reminded me, the wine is made like Sherry and spends some time aging under a layer of flor yeast which explains why it smells like dry Sherry. Tastes a bit like Sherry too. An acquired taste as they say. Since I’m not really familiar with these wines, I’ve provided some tasting notes from a helpful US importer.

‘Aged for approximately 3 years in 5 year old Burgundy barrels under a veil of yeast which forms on the surface of the slowly evaporating wine, this wine shares many of the aromatic qualities as the Vin Jaune: a slightly nutty, marzipan perfume along with green apple, and of course the trademark notes of a wine just beginning to oxidize.’ JoliVin Imports .

Domaine de la Tournelle Fleur de Savagnin 2008 - $48

This is a less exotic style, cleaner, fresher and easier to appreciate. ‘This wine lies at one end of the spectrum marking the range of style that Savagnin, the region’s most celebrated white varietal, can produce. Pascal Clairet is passionate about promoting this, the style that the Jura is least known for, that being youthful, fresh, clean, that is to say, non-oxidative, expression of the varietal.’ JoliVin Imports

Domaine de la Tournelle Trousseau des Corvées 2010

A clue here is that the red is the youngest of the trio, and it’s not a big red - delicate yet full of interesting flavours. ‘Another of the Jura’s unique red varietals, the Trousseau grape makes a slightly darker and more structured wine than does Ploussard while still maintaining a bright personality, intriguing aromas of freshly crushed wild berries and more subtle but no less intriguing nuances of a walk in the autumn forest, peony flowers and the suggestion of damp earth. It all adds up to something which is delicate, unique, and once one sits with it and surrenders, rather captivating. JoliVin Imports

Below is a picture of Tournelle’s owner/winemaker Pascal de Clairet (yes) and his cellar. On the right is a flor yeats demonstration cask with the typical glass front.

It’s not easy tasting wines for which you really have no reference points, but I’d have to say that none of these wines made me want to rush in and buy a dozen. A couple of the other guys did - as I said, an acquired taste. 

The next lot takes us to other parts of Europe, and better known labels except for the Mandoleto Nero d’Avola from Sicily. Nero d'Avola is the major red wine variety in Siciliy and well-suited to warmer climates. At $11, it’s clearly worth checking out. It didn’t grab me but it’s probably a red you need to have with oily, tasty Sicilian food.

Guiseppe Cortses Rabaja Barbaresco 2001 - $35

Barbaresco and Barolo are the prized reds from northern Italy (around Piedmont), and are both made from the Nebbiolo grape. They’re characterised by savoury, dusty, earthy flavours wrapped in tea-leaf tannins that often have an iron grip. The wines need time to give their best and eventually develop wonderful flavours in the tar and leather spectrum, but be warned: the tannin grip may never soften.

This one was a bit like that, deceiving the eye with its advanced, rusty colour, sweet fruit nose and soft mid palate. Toward the end, the tannins kicked in and made you sit up and pay attention. Gary liked it more than I did, and said the price was half of what you’d pay elsewhere (he’s right). If you’re interested, Peter Bourne the wineman is putting on an educational tasting, Nebbiolo Elusive and Exclusive, at his stylish Pyrmont premises on March 26 at 6.30.

Château Mazeyres Pomerol 2008 - $64

This is a small Pomerol chateau owned by Alain Moueix who also owns Fonroque, a Grand cru classé in neighbouring St. Emillion. The vineyard is planted to Merlot (80%) and Cabernet Franc (20%), and the vines are on average 30 years old. This is pretty classic Pomerol with toasty oak dominating the nose right now, and soft, savoury fruits dancing on the palate. Strong but fine-grained tannins hold it all together and ensure that the wine will improve for years. Refined and lovely.

William Downie Gippsland Pinot Noir 2011 – $62

Colour of rusty water, a nose that makes you think of Burgundy, and a palate that backs it up. Much more body and flavour than the colour suggests, and all that from a pretty difficult vintage. Great Pinot character in a nice package but not exactly cheap.

I didn’t get a shot of the champagne on offer, the Egly-OurietLes Vignes De Vrigny 1er Cru – Nov 11 disgorgement, which you can buy from John for $71. I suspect that’s a good price, given a couple of endorsements from a couple of serious wine people:

‘Egly-Ouriet's Champagnes are so good that I have begun buying them to drink at home.’ Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

‘Egly-Ouriet manages for Pinot Noir: wines of riveting concentration and purity.” Andrew Jefford, The New France

I'd love to drink this at home too, for sure

Thanks for the interesting trip, John

Kim