I mean real wine, not cheap confections
What you won’t see on this list are labels like Oxford Landing or Yalumba Y series, Tyrrell’s Lost Block or Old Winery, or Jacobs Creek in its various forms. They tend to creep into the BEST lists of Halliday, Stock et al for reasons that are beyond me to explain. There’s no reason I can think of to drink these industrial concoctions.
The best value in Aussie whites has long been found in our Rieslings. This is even more obvious in a near perfect vintage like 2012, where even humble labels like Annie’s Lane shine like stars on a black night sky. I bought this wine for $10, and some of our best 2012 Rieslings can be bought for $13 - $18. Andrew Mitchell coined the famous phrase that ‘the Clare valley is blessed with the unpopularity of Riesling.’ I’d extend that to include the Eden Valley also.
One reason why Riesling is not as popular as it should be is that wine writers keep telling us to drink it with delicate seafood dishes. I suspect the citrus fruit in young Rieslings makes them say that, but ripe Riesling fruit is too perfumed and intense in a vintage like 2012. Riesling is a much better match with chicken dishes, especially roast chicken.
Sauvignon Blanc anybody?
So what do you drink with seafood? Sauvignon Blanc. Yes, I know of the ABSB movement (Anything But SB), but there are some good ones of the grassy, gooseberry kind. Young Semillon that blends citrus and green apple characters with searing acid can also be a good match for seafood. Or a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc of the kind Margaret River does so well, unless it’s a big-flavoured fish or fish dish when a Chardonnay may be a better bet.
Finding good Chardonnays under $20 is a tough ask, but Hoddles Creek, TarraWarra, Bellarmine and Nugan Estate make wonderful exceptions. Closer to $10, things get tight. De Bortoli’s Windy Peak Chardonnay 2011 is one of the few bright spots here, and McWilliams Hanwood Chardonnay 2009 provides another one at around $8. Montes from Chile makes a drinkable Chardonnay in that ballpark as well.
Reds are no easier
No single variety stands out for value, but finding good Pinot Noir for any sort of reasonable money is just about Mission Impossible. Since you can buy a Margaret River Cabernet for as little as $11, we might just forget about the fickle Pinot Noir. Good Grenache blends aren’t hard to find either if you like reds in the Rhone style (vaguely). We have an abundance of Shiraz styles, mostly on the robust side, from the Hunter to Heathcote to the Barossa, the Clare and McLaren Vale.
I’ve resisted the temptation to list the great bargains that came and went, and have stuck to wines you can still buy if you know where. As I’ve written elsewhere, 2011 was a tough year for reds in South Australia but there are still plenty of 2010s in the shops. You can even find some of the great Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Black label of 2009 – a much better red then the 2010 – at Dan M’s and 1St Choice, but no longer for $20.
New Varieties
In recent years, we seen wineries explore the potential of new varieties from countries like Italy and Spain – Fiano, Vermentino, Savagnin, Barbera, Sangiovese and Temperanillo. I’ve yet to be impressed or surprised, and suspect we need better clones and more time to work out where to grow these varieties and how to make them into good wine. Pinot Gris is the only one that’s made it so far, but it tends to work better in cooler areas and NZ.
Lavernia e Cienfuegos Creative Agency
Not just my opinion
Wine is a pretty subjective substance, so I’ve included the views/reviews of others where they depart strongly from the mainstream. I’ve also added other reviews where they’re helpful, for example when it comes to styles I don’t like such as Hunter Semillons or McLaren Vale Shiraz, or blockbuster reds of 14.5% alcohol and more.
A quick reprise of my simple scoring system:
10 (98-99) a truly memorable wine, a likely classic
9 (96-97) an outstanding wine, a great example of its style and origin
8 (94-95) a fine wine that reflects its variety, style and origin
7 (92-93) a good, enjoyable wine of authentic character
6 (90-91) a well-made wine, a good 'drinking' wine
5 (88-89) a wine that's easy on the gums and has no serious faults
4 (86-87) a wine best used in the kitchen or in marinades for the BBQ
3 (85 and less) a wine you should avoid
BEST VALUE WHITES
Annie’s Lane Riesling 2012 - $12, Dan M’s
This is often discounted down to $10, which makes it a stupendous bargain. Classic Clare Riesling from a great year with that terrific fruit intensity and crisp citrus edge, well balanced but a little more forward than some - a wine to enjoy over the next 3-5 years. Next time it comes down to $10, back up the ute. Score: 8+
Jim Barry Watervale Riesling 2012 - $13.75, Kemenys
Vibrant, zippy Riesling with intense citrus fruit, hints of minerals and a fine acid backbone. Classic Clare. 12.4%, enjoy for the next 7 years. 8+
Hidden label Watervale Riesling 2010 - $10, Kemenys
This is Knappstein Handpicked Riesling under a Hidden label. Typical 2010 Clare Riesling, with restrained citrus fruit and minerals, long, fine finish, long future too. 12.5%. 95/100 from JH. Real bargain. Score: 8
Pewsey Vale Riesling 2012 - $15, Kemenys
Another great 2012 Riesling at a bargain price, proving that it was a great year in Eden Valley as well. Almost Germanic delicacy to the fruit, lovely length typical of the area. This is one of the best Rieslings of 2012, and ridiculous value. Back up the ute! Score: 9+
Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2011 – $13, Kemenys
Herbaceous, flinty gooseberry style. Flavour, depth and length. The 2011 is now perfect drinking. Summer drinking, serious bargain. Score: 7 +
Hidden Label Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 - $13, Kemenys
This is Stella Bella under a Hidden Label. A fairly big wine with more to it than most SSBs, ripe fruit with grass and gooseberry notes balanced by a strong finish. Score: 7
Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Gris 2012 - $15, Kemenys
The 2011 was a pretty good wine until it rushed into flabby maturity (as most PGs do). Best to drink them 6 -15 months after vintage. I’m taking a punt on the 2012.
Montes Chardonnay 2011 - $8.50, Dan M’s
Recognisable as Chardonnay, even sports a touch of complexity. A surprisingly well-rounded wine for the money. Score: 6 +
De Bortoli Windy Peak Chardonnay 2011 - $11.50, Dan M’s
Not a lot of complexity here, just a well-made, easy drinking commercial Chardonnay. Great value. Score: 6
Nugan Estate Frasca’s Lane King Valley Chardonnay 2009 - $17, Dan M’s
Despite almost years under its belt, I think this medium bodied Chardy needs another year or two to lose those grapefruit characters and hints of sour milk. There’s white peach trying to come out when the oak fully settles down, then it should really sing. 13.5%. JH is a little more enthusiastic and gives it 94 points. I’ll give it 7+.
Hoddles Creek Chardonnay 2011 – $19, Winestar. Score: 8.5
Terrific Chardonnay, oozes quality wine making. Campbell Mattinson sums it up this way: Long, complex, giving and finessed to perfection. Meal, nectarine, and lime flavour before a spicy, slatey, stony finish. Hoddles Creek Estate is no longer a “new” story so there’s no call for surprise, but this still managed to bowl me over. Rated : 95+ Points; 13.2%
Tahbilk Marsanne 2012 – $12, Dan M’s
Fresh and crisp when young, ages into a golden, round, honeyed treasure. 6++
Vintage Cellars Chalkboard Hunter Valley Semillon 2012
Trophy for the Best Current Vintage Semillon and the trophy for Best Current Vintage Dry White Wine at this year’s Hunter Wine show. Not my style but here’s what Tyson Stelzer says: Assembled by the legendary crew at Tyrrell’s exclusively for VCs, this is a crisp and zesty style of pure lime and lemon fruit, with a hint of cut grass. The 2012 vintage has made for a generous Semillon of impressive balance and clean fruit focus ...
Dopff au Moulin Pinot Blanc 2011 - $13, Dan M’s
Different. More fine minerals than fruit, good length, good with food like quiche or light, creamy pasta.
McLaren Escarpment, SA
BEST VALUE REDS
Foxie’s Hangout The Red Fox Pinot Noir 2010 - $19, 1st Choice
Won 3 trophies at the Victorian Wines Show in 2011. A fruit-driven style, with cherries and raspberries aplenty, balanced by some savoury flavours and gentle tannins. Not the most complex Pinot but lovely drinking. A bit hard to find now but worth looking for. Score: 7.5
Mount Langi Billi Billi Shiraz 2009 - $12.50, Kemenys
Vibrant, fruit-driven style, red berries, warm spices and pepper; well- balanced, medium-bodied palate, long finish. 14%. Punches well above its weight. Score: 7
Zeppelin Big Bertha Barossa Shiraz 2009 - $13, Winestar
These Zeppelin wines are big and soft Barossa reds made by Kym Teusner and Corey Ryan. Ready to drink, great with barbies. 14.5%. Score: 7
Hidden Label McLaren Vale Uncut Shiraz 2010 – Kemenys, $13
This is Gemtree under a Hidden Label. Not my style, but here’s what JH thinks of this wine: Deep, dense purple-crimson; this is a notably intense and complex Shiraz from the start of the bouquet through to the finish and aftertaste; spice, licorice, blackberry, blood plum and dark chocolate powder all have their say while leaving space and air, giving the wine finesse and elegance. 14.5%. Drink by: 2025. 95/100.
Teusner The Riebke Shiraz 2010 - $20, Winestar
Terrific Shiraz from old vines, from a great maker and a close to perfect vintage. Can't believe there's any left. 96 from JH, and I agree: 9
Seppelt Chalambar Shiraz 2009 - $17.50, Kemenys
A stylish cool climate red from the Grampians, medium- bodied with dark fruits, pepper and spices. Complex flavour, good depth and length with fine tannins and a long finish. 13.5%. (96 from Halliday). Score: 8
Yalumba The Scribbler Cabernet Shiraz 2009 - $14.75, Kemenys
Barossa and Eden Valleys. Elegant, vibrant, fruit-driven style. Not too big. 13.5%. Score: 7.5
St Hallet Shiraz Grenache 2010 - $12, 1st Choice
A Shiraz Grenache at the elegant end of the
spectrum, good flavour and balance, not bad for the money. Great if you like the style but
not the usual blockbusters. 13.5%. Score: 6+
Teusner Shiraz Mataro 2010 – $18, MyCellars
Outstanding example of this blend from the
Barossa, made from old vines, great flavour, perfect with roast beef
or hearty casseroles. Grab some while you still can. Score: 8.5
Montes Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - $8.50, Dan M's
Refined, polished Cabernet of authentic flavour and medium body. Nice drinking for the money. Score: 6+
McWilliams Hanwood Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 - $6.65, Kemenys
Medium-bodied, elegant Cabernet of surprising refinement. well balanced, long palate with gentle cassis fruit and fine tannins. A real surprise at this price. Score: 6
Hidden label Margaret River Cabernet 2009 - $11, Kemenys
This is Capel Vale regional selection under a Hidden label, which saves about $7. Typical medium-bodied Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon from a great year, polished black current fruit, soft tannins, easy drinking. 14%. JH gives this 94, and I’m not far behind with a score of 7. Ridiculous value.
Seppelt Grampians Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 - Dan M Cellar Release, online - $14.90
A real sleeper: medium bodied, soft and
gentle, mature Cabernet, easy on the gums. Only source is DM online
http://danmurphys.com.au/product/DM_916389/seppelt-cabernet-sauvignon-2005
Hidden Label Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - $18, Kemenys
This is the Leconfield 2010 under a hidden label, for a saving of $7-10. Rich, ripe, opulent cassis fruit, real depth, length and great balance with polished tannins. 14.5%. If you like the big Coonawarra cassis style, this is a great red. Score: 8.5
Amberley Secret Lane Margaret River Cabernet Merlot 2010 - $15, Winelistaustralia
I can’t believe there’s some of the 2010 left out there – this is the red bargain of 2012. It has won a gold in virtually every capital city wine show (and several trophies), an almost unequalled feat in terms of consistency. It’s a joy to drink: medium bodied but rich and supple, stacked with cassis and blackcurrant fruit, dried herbs and slate, all in perfect balance. http://www.winelistaustralia.com.au/wineShow.php?d=e501&pid=2459
Balnaves Of Coonawarra The Blend 2010 – $18, Winestar
53% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. I found it a bit too plush and lacking complexity, but others rave about it. Halliday talks of quite exceptional colour, absolutely full to the gills with juicy cassis blackcurrant fruit, fine, ripe tannins and quality French oak in abundance. It's way better than the 2009 and, indeed, one of the best 'The Blends' to date. 95 Points; Alcohol: 14.5%
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 - $25, Dan M’s
A stunning Cabernet even for $25, would make a great Christmas treat. Lots of cassis fruit but perfectly balanced with cedary oak, medium body, fine tannins, so well balanced it will improve for years. My score: 9. JH’s score: 96.
Wynns Coonawarra Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 - $26, Dan M’s
For just a dollar more, Dan Murphy offers the Cellar Release from 2006. All the same gorgeous attributes, but ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Stunning value. My score: 8.5. JH’s score: 95
Bubbles and
Sweet
Lindauer Brut NV - $12, Kemenys
Don’t know this one but Huon Hooke likes it: Light yellow with a faint brassy tint. Collar of mousse. Rich, complex, pinoty nose, smoky and meaty, red fruit aromas, complex and shows some maturity. Same in mouth: has some richness and breadth, a wine of mellowness and some developed character, with evident liqueur sweetness which is in fine balance with the flavour. Lovely drink. Rating: 91/100.
Chandon NV - 17.50, Kemenys
This is always a good value bubbly with a fine mousse, very well made and refined, some yeasty/bready characters, good length and a clean finish. Score: 7.5
Brown Brothers Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier - $19, Dan M’s
A very fine wine, where all the elements come together in harmony. A touch more complexity than the Chandon. Has won a bunch of trophies and gold medals. Score: 7.5
Leasingham Bin 8 KS Riesling 2008 - $8, Dan M
If Riesling has never become popular, late picked Riesling has become virtually invisible. JH encapsules the style perfectly: Elegant, intense, direct throwback to the Vickery spatlese wines of the early 1970s; sweet pure lime juice offset by perfectly balanced acidity; great length and certain to age over 20+ years. 10%. 95 points. Super bargain, but try it first.
Deen de Bortoli Vat 5 Botrytis Semillon 2008 - $10.50 for 375ml, Dan M’s
Great value sticky, not the most complex wine but lots of sweet flavour and plenty of botrytis apricot character. Not a lot of acid here so don’t keep it too long. Score: 7.5
Kim
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