The scientist behind Max Schubert is out after a century
Although history will remember Max Schubert as the creator of Penfolds Grange, he couldn't have done it without Ray Beckwith’s groundbreaking science and flair. Beckwith won the prestigious Maurice O’Shea Award in 2005, was awarded an Honorary Doctorate from the University of Adelaide, and in 2008 the Order of Australia 'for service to the Australian wine industry through contributions towards enhancing the quality and efficiency of the winemaking process.'
It's just as well Ray Beckwith lived to 100. For most of his life, he was the unsung hero in the Penfolds saga. In a recent interview, he said: 'All these things have come only after the last few years. It’s a good thing I didn’t conk out earlier, otherwise I wouldn’t have known!'
Ray Beckwith left, Alfred Scholz centre and Max Schubert right - in the sixties, enjoying a spot of Grandfather Port - photo courtesy of Philip White / http://drinkster.blogspot.com/
The following is an extract from Penfolds - The Rewards of Patience, 6th Edition (2008), by Andrew Caillard MW, Allen & Unwin.
Dr Ray Beckwith is one of the unsung pioneers of the modern Australian wine industry. His contribution to quality control and wine stability is of major significance. His influence was far reaching, yet his name is barely known. In 1932, he returned to Roseworthy Agricultural College with a cadetship in oenology – a paid position – after having graduated earlier in the year with an Honours Diploma in agriculture.
His interest in the performance and efficiency of winemaking yeasts lead to an important association with Alan Hickinbotham - a pivotal figure in Australian wine science and whose work in pH and malo-lactic fermentation would have profound generational effect on winemaking philosophy. The project involved the identification and analysis of a high performance yeast of Portuguese origin – a yeast later designated A1 – and used commercially by Penfolds in the production of millions of litres of fortified wines.
After a brief stint with Thomas Hardy working
with Colin Haselgrove and Roger Warren, he was poached by Leslie
Penfold Hyland – who read about Ray Beckwith’s findings and the
potential economic benefits of pure yeast culture in an Australian
Brewing and Wine Journal.
'As Mr Hyland had asked for a decision and a convenient date to start
work at Nuriootpa, I wrote and suggested December 13th 1934. He
replied and sent a cheque for £4-10-0 for one week’s holiday pay with
the instruction to start at Nuriootpa on 2nd January 1935.' Ray Beckwith
Beckwith joined Penfolds at Nuriootpa in January 1935 where he was
immediately impressed by 'the row upon row of stacks of American oak
hogsheads (300Litres), filled almost exclusively with port' – the drink
of preference of the time. Submerged cap fermentation – still a
classical method of vinification – was used extensively throughout
Penfolds cellars – even prior to the production of Grange.
In later years – the drainings the last free run but thick unctuous highly concentrated runnel of new wine from the cap of skins and pips - would be sent down to Max Schubert at Magill to beef up some of the premium and special bin reds. Beckwith observed, however, that 'the heat of fermentation was a major problem because too much heat resulted in the loss of quality and the prospect of bacterial spoilage.'
Crude copper heat exchangers – using bore water - were brought in around this time (Later, these would be replaced by stainless steel). Presses, must pumps and crushers were all driven by a shaft with pulley and belt drive – all powered by 60HP electric motors – which had only recently replaced a powerful steam engine – still mounted on the front deck opposite the boiler house.
In 1935 Penfolds did not own any vineyards in the Barossa -
all the grapes were purchased from independent growers – many who still
used 'German wagons and horses to deliver their crop. Indeed the only
company vehicle at Nuriootpa was a 'heavy masher dray pulled by a
Clydesdale horse.' Wine – in hogsheads - left the winery by rail.
Beckwith immediately set about building a new laboratory and a yeast
propogation tank – made from an old gin still. Observation and
innovation saw new ways of making wine at Penfolds. He introduced a
highly analytical and practical winemaking regime – many practices now
standard in the modern Australian wine industry.
Bacterial spoilage of
wine, however, was a major problem in the early 1930s. Initially Ray
Beckwith’s role was to find ways to treat the wine through fining
agents, ozone injection, pasteurization and re-fermentation with fresh
juice. The quest for stability lead Ray Beckwith down cul-de-sacs and
new pathways. As one problem was solved, new problems arose. Out of
frustration he introduced a philosophy of preventative winemaking which
was to become a key to Penfolds reputation.
Ray Beckwith’s interest in wine acidity lead to the important and far
reaching conclusion – in 1936 - that 'pH may be a useful tool in the
control of bacterial growth.' Beckwith knew of John Fornachon’s work
with the disastrous sweet wine disease, identified as being caused by
lacto bacillus – and damaging Australia’s reputation in its key United
Kingdom market.
On reading Fornachon’s report, Ray Beckwith understood the influence of pH. He persuaded Leslie Penfold Hyland that Penfolds needed a pH meter with the Morton glass electrode – a highly expensive piece of equipment. He then experimented and applied new winemaking standards using the addition of tartaric acid – a natural constituent of wine – to lower pH. Ray Beckwith once said 'maybe its overstating the case but bacterial spoilage could go through a winery like a bushfire. But with proper control, a winemaker could sleep easy at night.'
Certainly this discovery was critically important in the development of all Penfolds dry red wines – and notably Grange. Beckwith also noticed that on adjusting pH to his new standard, the 'colour brightened and with it a sheen.' Interestingly many believe that Ray Beckwith’s discovery – the application of pH to the control of bacteria in wine – was the first in the world.
The
Penfolds team in the lab in the fifties. Left to right: Murray
Marchant, Gordon Colquist, Ivan Combet (father of Federal Cabinet
Minister Greg Combet), Perce McGuigan (father of Brian and Neil),
Jeffrey Penfold-Hyland, Max Schubert, John Davoren, Don Ditter, Harold
Davoren (John's father) and Ray Beckwith - photo and info courtesy of Drinkster
Ian Hickinbotham – veteran winemaker, winewriter and ex-Penfolds manager
– writes in his autobiography Australian Plonky 'Beckwith applied his
unique knowledge to the making and husbandry of all wine types – with
remarkable cost savings – when employed by Penfolds for the rest of his
working life. In a nutshell, he saved the 25% wine component that
previously had to be destroyed by distillation due to bacterial
spoilage. From that time, around 1940, Australia became a world leader
in the making of table wine.'
'After World War II, the engineers and metallurgists made a contribution
(to fine wine production) with the provision of new and improved
equipment such as refrigeration and heat exchangers, hermetic
centrifuges, filters and sterile filtration equipment, pumps and
bottling equipment and so on - all in stainless steel, thereby
eliminating the earlier problem of metal contamination from brass and
copper construction. Stainless steel tanks gradually came into common
use, especially as the cost came down to practical levels. Insulation
of these tanks against extreme temperatures improved their value.' Ray
Beckwith
Vigilance, care and attention to detail were important to Beckwith. He
developed systems which are now standard throughout the industry. This
went beyond the laboratory to practical winemaking solutions at every
quality level. The list of innovations and inventions is extraordinary.
He designed and improvised new plant and equipment, introduced new
technology and quality control procedures. He was arguably the first
person to introduce paper-chromatography as a test for completion of
malo-lactic fermentation.
He designed quality standards in a time before
consistency and standardization became an industry norm. His early work
with the mass production of flor sherry and solving the issues of
contamination were critical to the success of Penfolds during the 1940s
and 1950s. Indeed his work was so important that management told him he
could go to the local horse races, but was not to talk to any other
wine people on technical subjects.
Ray Beckwith was the quintessential winemaker’s 'boffin’ – a brilliant
chemist and scientist. Clearly Max Schubert relied greatly on Beckwith’s
intuition and quiet determination. History will remember Max Schubert
as the creator of Grange. Without his contribution the fame of Penfolds
Grange may not have eventuated. Now approaching his century, Arthur Ray
Beckwith’s work has finally been recognized by the wine industry and the
wider community.
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More information here, including Ray's own 100th birthday speech and Who really employed Max Schubert:
http://drinkster.blogspot.com/2012/11/dr-ray-beckwith-oam-dies-at-100.html
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