1954 Hardys Show Port and 1963 Dow - could it get any better?
It was another night of delights at Peter
Bourne’s place in Pyrmont. Here are some of the boys limbering up - 3 Peters and 1 Alan. Chris was in another room, decanting the vintage port. (Please click on any of the images to see a bigger file)
This time, the most delectable delights were the old Rieslings and the old dessert wines. For me, that is. The whites and reds in between require more explanation, and I'll do my best.
I could have happily gone home after drinking these three wines. They had so much character and flavour and rich vitality – yes, they were still full of life! What more can I say?
The Corton-Charlemagne was the star of this lot, of course. Leaner than usual, needs a few more years to fill out. The Penfolds was toast, literally – toasty oak showing Penfolds attempts to come to grips with Chardonnay making on the way to Yattarna. The Chardonnays improved over the years, but that name still sucks. I didn’t think much of the Tyrrells, but I was the odd man out as usual on Hunter Semillon.
The Tarrawarra was pretty smelly in the manner of some Burgundies, and had clearly seen better days. The Rockford was an old sweet red without much complexity, and the Huntington reminded me of Mark Twain. He once said: what is remarkable about the talking dog is not the words it utters, but the fact it can speak at all. In the same vein, the Huntington Pinot Noir was remarkable for still being alive after 32 years.
Here's Paul, looking confused as usual by something Peter is explaining about wine
The years were less kind to this next bracket of once lovelies. Way past it except for the 1965 Wybong Park Cabernet, a lovely old Hunter red with soft fruit dressed in tar and leather. The third from the left was a 1976 Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
The 1986 Henschke Hill of Grace had a smell
you couldn’t get past, and the 1991 Wendouree Shiraz I brought wasn’t exciting anyone
despite the good condition of the bottle. Maybe we’re keeping our wines too
long? (you know what they look like, so no pic)
The frogs were in better shape, even the old Telegraph still sending messages of former glory. Don’t remember the Dasvin Belair (it was that time in the evening when I usually have a nap); the Beychevelle 89 was an elegant old Bordeaux in good condition. A 2002 Leoville-Barton (not in the picture) was as tight and dense as a 3-year old. The Chambertin Clos De Beze was so muscular that I would not have picked it as a Pinot Noir or a Burgundy.
The 1960 Coutet was simply astounding for the life it still had, and the layers of goodies to smell and taste and enjoy here. Best sweet wine I can remember in a while. The Canobolas-Smith was an interesting diversion and the Quarts de Chaume 1997 was as fresh as a spring flower covered in morning dew. Not the most complex wine but a real delight.
Peter, John and Reg - clearly overwhelmed by the multitude of grog in front of them.
And now, the highlight of the evening for most of us I suspect: the ports. And what a way to open the summer port drinking season, Chris!
The Hardy’s 1954 Show Tawny was a work of staggering
genius. Late-bottled in 1964. Classic Hardy’s port, still going strong, must’ve been a monster in its
youth. Gorgious layers of mature flavours, and possibly the finest brandy spirit I’ve ever tasted. The 1963 Dow was
just as brilliant an example of perfect Portuguese Vintage Port. Heaven both of them, really
and truly. Enormous thanks, Chris and Reg (correct me if I'm wrong, pls)
The Wolf Blass? We didn’t open it, thinking it was better to enjoy the label with the portrait of a cherub-like Wolfie. His conversation with Richard Fidler is a classic, as I said, Wolfie telling us that he came out in early sixties and showed us how to make table wine. No kidding – audio podcast here, but be warned: it’ll crack you up. http://www.abc.net.au/radionational/programs/conversations/wolf-blass/4301008
Thank you for sharing these wonderful wines,
friends. Full list below.
Kim
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