Wine shows are there to improve the breed, not to guide punters
So I'm told. I subscribe to wine newsletters like JH’s wine companion, Huon Hooke’s somewhat different service and Tyson Stelzer’s minimalist scribbles. Halliday’s letter starts like this: ‘The age-old discussion about wine show results is not going to finish any time soon. Much of the debate proceeds on the assumption that the results should inform the public, and should be consistent from one show to the next.’
Come again, James? If wine shows are not meant to guide the drinking public, why do you let wine companies stick all those medal stickers on their bottles?
‘In fact the primary purpose,’ James insists, ‘is common to all categories in the agricultural shows: to improve the breed. Only by having your wine – or bull, or budgerigar — judged by independent experts in the context of other exhibits of the same class. The issues come when a wine wins a ‘lucky’ gold medal, or when its style is controversial. Gold medals are decided by a panel of three judges, while trophies involve all judges. So, if you take a gold medal with a grain of salt, there should be no reservations about a trophy winner.’
The primary purpose is to improve the breed - interesting concept. What happened to the breed in the nineties and early noughties when reds became overripe, over-oaked, high-alcohol caricatures, and Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs had an identity crisis? Huon Hooke talks about wines like that - read on!
Huon also says the trophies are the ones that count – ‘and when the trophy wines are outstanding, it usually indicates the show was well-judged.’ Is he conceding that the trophy wines aren’t always outstanding?
He says the 2012 Sydney Royal Wine Show was a great success, that most of the trophy wines are outstanding wines in the cutting-edge modern Australian style. ‘With some exceptions,’ he writes, ‘they're a far cry from the unsubtle, woody troglodytes that typified wine-show winners in the not-too-distant past.’ Thanks you, Huon. I feel vindicated for turning my back on those shockers years ago.
Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge
A famous label, and an expensive one these days, Mount Langi has spawned several more affordable offspring. Cliff Edge is one of those, and Huon tells us that it’s won three trophies, including the Macquarie Group Perpetual Trophy for best wine of the Sydney Show. Best's Great Western Bin 0 Shiraz from the same area in Victoria won two trophies and will sell for $75. Mount Langi’s Cliff Edge will sell for $30 or less. Huon says you won’t able to buy it for another year, but Mount Langi’s website seems to be ready to take your money today. http://www.langi.com.au/winess/cliff-edge-shiraz-1050.html?mid=2&sid=1

The 2010 Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir ($35) is another winner, ‘yet another crackerjack Yarra pinot from the great 2010 harvest.' The top dry white was Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2010, due to be released on May 1 at $60. No bargains on the white side of the fence, but once again Huon reminds us that ‘not that long ago overtly oaky chardonnays were still taking off these top awards. Thank heavens it's changed.’
The times they are a’changin’
‘On the down-side,’ Huon says, ‘... there are still some horrors getting up. At the [final] dinner, we were served the Leasingham Classic Clare Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, a dreadfully oaky, minty, coarse wine which I frankly could not drink – and neither could anyone else that I could see. This wine is a dinosaur and the style should go the way of all dinosaurs. How on earth did it get a trophy? Search me…’
I know Huon from way back. He’s a straight talker, hasn’t changed clearly. Decanter quoted him in a recent piece, saying ‘The age of elegance has dawned on Australian wine – there are more finer-structured, lighter-bodied, yet intensely flavoured red and white wines of moderate alcohol than has ever been the case.’ Huon adds that these wines are often overlooked or pushed aside by those big, cuddly, warm Barossa reds.
The folks at Decanter made an interesting point: that Australia is one of the few countries that could happily produce both styles. They backed this up with the magazine’s front page, which shows a cool climate Shiraz from Giaconda and Mollydooker’s The Boxer Shiraz that boasts 16% alcohol. One punch will lay you out flat, I suspect.

Did you know that Mollydooker means left-hander, or southpaw? You live and learn. I have to add that the Chris Ringland 2009 Shiraz packs even more of a punch at 16.8% alcohol. No, it’s not a misprint, it’s almost 17% and would easily classify as a fortified wine. Why on earth would you want to make a wine like that, let alone drink one? Beats me.
The Shanghai International Wine Challenge
I've developed a fondness for those big cuddly Barossa reds like Teusner’s Avatar and Shiraz Mataro, and Turkey Flat Shiraz and Grenache. I draw the line at 14.5%, though. In the last couple of days, I came across the SIWC results (never heard of it? Neither had I), and the best wine of that show was Kalleske’s Moppa Shiraz 2010. The trophy for the best white was won by the St Clair Premium Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011. Among the judges were Ian Riggs (Brokenwood) and Bob Campbell, a well-known MW and wine judge from NZ.
http://www.esiwc.com/awardslist2011.shtml

Kalleske is a known quantity, a family of established Barossa grape growers whose seventh generation - Troy and Tony – began making wine from 2002. In 2008, Troy won the award for Barossa Winemaker of the Year and was named Australia’s Young Gun of Wine. As an aside, Kym Teusner won Gourmet Traveller ‘Young Wine Maker of the Year in 2007.

Kalleske's 120 acre vineyard is planted to Shiraz, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Mataro, Petit Verdot, Durif, Viognier, Tempranillo and Zinfandel. Vines vary in age with the oldest dating back to 1875. The average age is about 50 years. The grapes are grown organically and biodynamically and the winery is certified organic.
Clarry’s GSM blend is a lovely introduction to the Kalleske realm for less than $20. The top wines fetch much headier prices, but we’re in luck with the Moppa Shiraz: its only another $10, but we’re in more luck since Dan M is offering an online special on the Moppa 2010 for $23 in a six-bottle buy http://danmurphys.com.au/product/DM_381401/
This Moppa is made from 86% Shiraz, 9% Petit Verdot and 5% Viognier. That combo is a first in my book. Winemaking is traditional, and the wine was aged in hogsheads for sixteen months - 25% new American, French, Hungarian and Russian oak, the balance seasoned barrels. Russian oak is another first for me. And this wine id from the outstanding 2010 vintage.
‘A delicious drop and amazing value when compared to some of the region’s more famous brews,’ Huon Hooke writes in the SMH. ‘Soft and sweet fruited, it’s quite succulent, round and smooth!’ Nick from Nick’s Wine merchants says it’s ‘full bodied, the palate delivers voluptuous flavours of dark plum, blackberry and liquorice followed by a touch of exotic apricot with a spicy back palate. Opulently textured velvet smooth tannin structure. Long aftertaste of dark plum, liquorice, spice and toast. Drink over the next 4-5 years.’
St Clair
Never heard of this vineyard, and soon wondered why when I started looking for more info on the web. A deluge of accolades just about swept me off my perch:
- Trophy for Best New Zealand Wine Producer of the Year at the International Wine and Spirit Competition 2005
- White Winemaker of the Year at the London International Wine Challenge 2008
- NZ winery of the year 2011 (Winestate)
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'Saint Clair now makes the country’s and perhaps the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc.' Bob Campbell MW, wine judge and wine writer
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'Saint Clair has won more top awards for Sauvignon Blanc in recent years than any of the three or four hundred other local producers.' Bob Campbell
- Recent trophies and gold medals http://www.saintclair.co.nz/news/press_releases.aspx?a=206
- ‘This label has shown fine form lately and is a top buy’ (Michael Cooper, NZ’s JH)
‘Fully accomodating with gentle fruit laden acids, alluringly scented and nicely mineral,’ says one reviewer. ‘A dulcet passionfruit and lychee melody in fine pitch and perfect harmony, intensely Marlborough and impeccably integrated!’ (Wine Mag.com.au). Another wine poet – I’d better get out my iambic pentameter and my rhyming dictionary.

It’s $16.15 at 1st Choice Liquor or at Dan M’s in a six bottle buy http://danmurphys.com.au/product/DM_906919/saint-clair-sauvignon-blanc
I’ll get a hold of the Kalleske and the St Clair, and let you know whether they measure up to their PR. The Mount Langi Cliff Edge is tempting but it’s a bit over my budget right now, and with 3 trophies you’re not likely to find it discounted any time soon.
Kim